DUCK AND WAFFLE - DANIEL DOHERTY

I am often unsure how to feel about cookery books written by restaurant chefs. There is a necessary distinction to be made between home cooking - of which I am a doer - and restaurant cuisine - of which I am an eater. It's necessary because it is often said that to translate a restaurant-derived recipe into a domestic kitchen isn't an easy feat. 

This book obliterates that preconception, entirely. 

Daniel Doherty is, undoubtedly, one of my favourite chefs. He's worked all over London as head chef, and is now executive chef at Duck and Waffle - a 40th floor restaurant in the City of London, with the best views and the best food. His style of cooking and use of flavour combinations, he admits, aren't descended from one particular cuisine. It's that variety that makes him so brilliant. He's a chef who can, and will, use any flavour combination that best suits a particular ingredient, rather than attempt to fit the ingredient into a repetitive repertoire and limited larder.

This cookbook is doubly jaw dropping: metaphorically for the inspired ideas; literally for the immediate urge to eat every recipe. You'll be mightily impressed. 

Duck & Waffle: Recipes and Stories, Daniel Doherty. Mitchell Beazley, £25.